The north-eastern, culture-crammed pocket of Asakusa is famously home to the Sensō-ji Temple, known for its big red lantern and even bigger throngs of tourists. But you can avoid the coachloads by venturing down the district’s narrow back alleys to discover trad makers, homey noodle joints and enough kitchenware to make Nigella weep.
At Ameshin, nimble-fingered amezaiku (confectionary sculptor) Shinri Tezuka uses his magic hands to shape and scissor molten sugar into delicate and remarkably realistic goldfish, frogs, cats and candy cranes. Visit his itty-bitty Asakusa workshop to see him at work, but note that the nearby Solamachi Store at Tokyo Skytree Town is the only place where you can buy his sweet treats.
Komagata Dozeu is a 200-year-old Akasaka time warp with tatami floor seats, low tables and a menu dedicated to an enticing eel-like fish. It may not be a high-falutin’ institution, but it’s certainly a one-of-a-kind culinary experience. Give the sweet and salty namazu hotpot a shot.
Over at Edo Soba Hosokawa, springy strings of wholesome soba are made daily from the chef’s homegrown buckwheat and served in a sweet, communal diner. Soba with conger eel tempura is the house specialty, but do take a noodle at the seasonal dishes, and book the semi-private room for more intimate dining.
If you like the sound of browsing more kitchenwares and cooking curios than you could poke a customised chopstick at, beeline for Kappabashi Street, home to 150+ shops (plus a fair bit of tat). Avoid the latter by heading to Dengama for artisanal tableware, Tanaka for lacquerware and Kamata Knife Shop for beautiful blades and English service. Need a retail breather? Pop into tony Sake Sanwa (3-17-11 Matsugaya) for a tipple at the stand-up tasting bar.
Sensō-ji, Tokyo’s oldest Buddhist temple, is dedicated to the mistress of mercy, Kannon. You’ll have to fight through the selfie-stick wielders to snap a pic by the famous red lantern and pretty pagoda; once done, bow to the lady herself in the main hall, then exit left and have a gander around the far more peaceful koi pond and smaller shrines. Avoid the tourist merch and heaving hordes of the main approach by taking the parallel streets to the left or right. You’ll be rewarded with small, traditional vendors such as washi-paper seller Kurodaya and tenugui towel shop Kururi.
For more insider tips in the Nippon capital, nab a copy of the LUXE Tokyo Guide…
