The chilled counterpart to prim n’ proper sister Tokyo, Osaka is big city Japan at its most friendly and relaxed – if a city of 20+ million can be called relaxed. This port-placed player is all about tasty street food (though her fine dine fare ain’t to be scoffed at either), city-to-sea vistas, and elements of Kansai classicalism smack-bang beside bamboozling neon-lit modernity. Here’s a LUXE-approved list of the best bits Osaka has to offer.
EAT
Akaoni Takoyaki
Osakan cuisine is famed for its Takoyaki – springy octopus balls which are sold on almost every corner. But Akaoni is a step up from the street stall fare. They use tender raw octopus, the best bonito from Kagoshima, nori all the way from Hokkaido and organic wheat and eggs to achieve a taste even Michelin has come to love. And they make each order fresh at your table, so careful, it’s hot! Try it with spicy sauce for some extra heat. 1-2-3 Namba, Chuo-ku, doutonbori-akaoni.com
Fujiya1935
Personable chef Tetsuya Fujiwara brings an omotenashi touch to every aspect of his 3-Mich starred restaurant, from the water served in the waiting area (drawn from a birch tree and garnished with an edible flower) to the quality of the cutlery (custom made by Kai). And that’s before you’ve even had a bite of the fabulous food! The lunch course offers outstanding value for money. Reservations through your hotel concierge only. 2-4-14 Yariyamachi, Chuo-ku, fujiya1935.com
Hajime
Pretty as a picture Franco-fusion culinary creations from computer engineer turned chef and artist Hajime Yoneda. Signature dish Chikyu, or Earth, uses as many as 110 different vegetables, herbs and grains around a shellfish foam to form a picture of our planet. Talk about skillful presentation! But you’ll have to take a mental pic as there’s a strict no photos policy. 1-9-11 Edobori, Nishi-ku, hajime-artistes.com
SHOP
Graf Studio
The very best of Japanese interior and home accents, produced in-house by a small team, around the concept of ‘comfortable living’. Add frequently changing collaborations with other local names and a tasty cafe – where you can try before you buy – and you’ve got an all-day outing for design aficionados. Want to sit for a bit? Don’t miss their vanilla milk tea for a sweet treat. 4-1-9 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, graf-d3.com
Oguraya Yamamoto
Traditional salted konbu, a famous product of Osaka, is said to bring luck to the eater. The signature Ebisume variety at Oguraya Yamamoto is made from only the thickest parts of prime Hokkaido konbu, painstakingly slow-simmered to bring out a deep flavour and tenderness. Attractively boxed gift sets are also available. 4-10-26 Minamisenba, Chuo-ku, ogurayayamamoto.co.jp
Roggykei
Avant-garde, oh-so-hip (if not slightly bonkers) concept shop by up-and-comer local designers Hitoshi Korogi and Keiko Miyakoshi, who’ve dressed the likes of Lady Gaga. Their cutting-edge creations use elements of traditional Japanese garments to create powerful modern silhouettes for him and her. Their wallets and bags are seriously hot property this season. B1/F, Meriyasu Bldg, 3-1-39 Fukushima, Fukushima-ku, roggykei.com
SPA
Minoo Onsen Spa Garden
Take peek at the lovely Minoh Waterfall, before slipping into your yukata and kicking back at this fabulous hot spring. Spa Garden offers day-trippers a variety of different pools (including an outdoor rotenburo), plus sauna, hot stone spa, relaxation rooms, a sprawling powder room with lots of free skincare samples and a restaurant with sumptuous meals and private rooms. 1-1 Onsencho, Mino-shi, minoh-spa.ooedoonsen.jp
The Day Spa
The solution for sore muscles or stressed skin awaits at this popular day getaway. Head-to-toe massages, plus body and face treatments using high-quality products from Biologique Recherche, Natura Bissé and more. The 3-hour relaxation package is a lovely splurge that covers all bases: your choice of body treatment, an aromatic facial, and a head or foot massage. Spa-aaah. 2/F, 1-8-14 Hiranomachi, Chuo-ku, thedayspa.jp
SEE
Daikimaru Yakatabune
See Osaka’s sights from the warm, atmospheric comfort of a yakatabune boat, complete with sake and hot pot! Unlike most companies in town, Daikimaru has no minimum number of people per reservation, and offers a kickin’ karaoke system to while away the journey. Choose from a range of different dining options, from h’ordeuvres to seasonal multi-course meals, plus all-you-can-glug fizz n’ booze. With advance notice, they can even stock the bar with your personal favourites – need we say more? Anchors away! 5-12-5 Nakanocho, Miyakojima-ku, daikimaru.jp
Sakai By Tram
Take in all the historic attractions of beautiful seaside Sakai – from Jomon Era tombs to feudal swordsmiths – without pounding the pavements and wearing out those Manolos. Just grab a map from tourist info and kick back on the charming old-school Hankai streetcar for a peaceful chug around town. A special one-day tourist pass lets you hop on and off as much as you like – do be sure to swing by Kanbukuro (1-2-1 Shinzaikecho-higashi), a sweet shop that’s been around since 1329, for a delicious walnut mochi. The cute ceramic takeaway jars are also great for gifting. Tourist Info, 2-3-24 Nakakawara-machi, Sakai-ku, sakai-tcb.or.jp
Osaka Castle & Gardens
Osaka’s very own ‘Cinderella Castle’ is worth the hike, if only for its awesome vistas across the city. Love a bit of Edo-era intrigue? Then have a squizz at the museum inside, documenting its fascinating 500-year chequered history – a stark contrast to the uber-modern metropolis that surrounds it. If not, zip straight up to the top floor for that view. Outside, the lush 15-acre grounds are lovely for a stroll, weather permitting. 1-1 Osakajo, Chuo-ku, osakacastle.net
DO
Eat Osaka
Sushi? Pah! Lift the lid on how Japanese people really eat with a fun, informative 2-3 hour cooking class under the guidance of a local chef. Focus on either home cooking or, what Osaka is most famous for – street food – and learn to make everything from a paper-thin dashimaki, a rich miso soup, and picture-pretty moshi to yummy yakitori, udon noodles and okonomiyaki. After, pull up a stool and dig into the fruits of your labour, then follow up with a trip to Sennichimae Dōguya-suji, a cacophony of pots, pans, knives and tableware to complete your Japanese dining experience at home. 1-4-1 Ebisu-Higashi, Naniwa-ku, eatosaka.com
– Published 21 October 2016.
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