Bangkok: Street Food Without The Street

Long considered one of world’s best street food destinations, Bangkok is undergoing a 'clean up' as pesky authorities remove open-air food stalls from streets and sois.

But fret not, foodies, there are still plenty of shophouses that provide real-deal, street-style Thai flaves worthy of a Bourdain show. And much like the curbside carts of Chinatown and Silom, these stripped-back joints offer a remarkably democratic dining encounter, where society ladies slurp alongside tuk-tuk drivers.

As well as scoping out style-setting additions for the LUXE Bangkok guide, cuisine queen Chawadee Nualkhair is the author of blog Bangkok Glutton and ‘Thailand’s Best Street Food’. Here are her top picks – aroy mak!

Thipsamai Pad Thai

Possibly the most famous street vendor in the country, Thipsamai has morphed from tony stall to bustly diner, feeding hundreds of hungry patrons nightly. Six chefs fire up gigantic woks, cooking as many as 20 portions of their signature ‘egg-wrapped’ pad Thai in one go (the noodles are fried then lightly encased in an omelette-esque sheath of egg). No reservations, so go early to avoid queuing. 313-315 Mahachai Rd, 5pm-
3am daily.


Aisa Rot Dee

Through the hole in the wall you go for this surprising indoor food court filled with Thai-Muslim stalls, serving aromatic southern and Middle-Eastern dishes like beef satay, chicken biryani and mataba  (a kind of flat bread stuffed with potato or meat, and served with a cooling cucumber relish). Best experienced at lunchtime, when it’s busier than the Grand Bazaar, but great for people watching. 178 Tani Rd, 9am-4pm & 5-9pm daily.


Krua Apsorn

Well-established on the traveller’s to-do list, Krua Apsorn is still loved by the local fooderati for its finely tuned renditions of central Thai classics. Founded by a former cook to the royal family, its decor might veer school cafeteria, but it’s always packed to the max come lunchtime. Must-try dishes include the crab omelette and stir-fried crab with long beans. Although there are now several branches around the city, the original in Dusit is the best. 503-505 Samsen Rd, 10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat.


Guaythiew Pik Gai Sainampung

This retro, pastel-blue-n-yellow shophouse has been quietly dazzling Bangkokians with its flavourful chicken noodle soup, topped with julienned beans and peanuts, for years now. Slurp elbow-to-elbow as you admire the walls plastered with photos of the royal family, Buddhist monks, and reviews of its fare in several languages. The yen ta fo (pink noodles in fermented tofu sauce) is the bomb. 392/20 Sukhumvit Rd, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri.


Nuttaporn Ice Cream

Blink and you’ll miss this unassuming shophouse in Bangkok’s old town. Nuttaporn has been scooping made-from-scratch Thai-style ice cream for more than 60 years, with yumsome flavours ranging from coconut milk and mango to coffee and Thai tea. Just add a variety of toppings like roasted peanuts, lotus seeds, and sweet corn – but beware – if eagle-eyed Nuttaporn is watching she’ll only let you choose certain combos! 94 Phraeng Phuton Sq, 8am-4pm Mon-Sat.


This article was originally written by LUXE for PenCities.

From rustic som tam joints to haute diners, discover the full range of gourmet experiences with the LUXE Bangkok guide...

Buy the guide button.png


    CONTRIBUTOR

    Chawadee Nualkhair



    Scribe and avid foodie Chawadee has lived in Thailand on and off since 1995, and now calls Bangkok home. She enjoys all types of fried noodles, but is not a big fan of jok.

    • Chawadee LOVES... Pies, anything with sticky rice, whiskey and Game of Thrones

    • Chawadee LOATHES... Soggy soft-shell crabs, lukewarm congee, ice wine and Dallas Cowboys




    Luxe Recommends

    Explore
    Yoga Elements Bangkok
    A round-up of the city's best yoga, holistic and meditation spaces.
    Read more
    Explore
    Museum of Floral Culture
    From the Queen's personal frock collection to an antique-crammed teak manse, BKK's smaller museums are stashed with treasures.
    Read more
    Eat & Drink
    Street Food Without The Street
    Resident curator and cuisine queen Chawadee Nualkhair shares her favourite go-tos for real-deal Thai flaves.
    Read more
    Explore
    Bangkok rainy season
    Caught in yet another tropical downpour? Keep these wet weather distractions tucked up your (waterproof) sleeve.
    Read more