Equal parts vivacious, soulful, confounding and fickle, Bangkok is the eternal phoenix with a remarkable ability to rise from the ashes over and again. And while the recent passing of HM King Bhumibol has dampened spirits, the city continues to set pace with its amazing dining, shopping and good old-fashioned spa-ing. If you’re passing through the City of Angels simply follow our guide on the best bits to do in a day.
8am: Breakfast at Rocket Coffee Bar
This sleek, blonde, Scandi-style coffee champ fuels hungry, hip Bangkokians with its wholesome Swedish brekkie plates made from sustainably sourced ingreds (the eggs herald from northern Hill Tribes). Pick one of the house-baked rye or wheat pastries to accompany your artisanal java and you’re all set for the day ahead.
149 Sathorn Soi 12. +61 2 6350 404 (gets packed on weekends, so book ahead). rocketcoffeebar.com
9.30am: Sights to see
First-time to the Siam capital? Then it’s worth braving the tourist throngs at the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, but aim to arrive by 10am and get out by midday. Architecturally stunning, or gaudy, depending on your perspective, they are quite simply unmissable.Na Phra Lan Rd, Phra Nakhon palaces.thai.net
If you’ve previously ticked off these two stupa-doupers, then jump in a cab to Chinatown. This frenetic, commercial district clustered around Charoen Krung Rd is tops for street food, street life and art, antiques and fauxtiques – plus its captivating narrow back sois are surprisingly pedestrian friendly. Starting at River City Shopping Complex, follow signposts for the China Town Walking Street Tour, an easy amble that has you strolling past the C.18th Portuguese-built Holy Rosary Church, colonial period archi and teeming alleyways.
12.30: Lunch at The Jam Factory
You’ve absorbed the city’s heritage, now embrace its modern aspect at architect Duangrit Bunnag’s funky design compound The Jam Factory. Retrace to River City by taxi and hop on the ferry to the other side of the river, where you’ll discover a cluster of warehouses that hide a bookshop, art gallery and interiors store perched around a lush courtyard. Retreat to monochrome darling The Never Ending Summer for upscale Thai comfort bites.
41/1-5 Charoennakorn Rd, Khlong San. +66 2 861 0950
2pm: Sukhumvit shopathon
Appetite satiated, it’s time to get your shop on. The Jam Factory is a short boat ride away from Charoen Krung’s splendid art and antique shops, but if traffic permits, Uber it over to Sukhumvit 23 for a more varied retail trawl. At Almeta Silk, (20/3 Sukhumvit Soi 23) beautiful flowing fabrics in countless colours can be bought by the metre, hand-woven to order or transformed into cushions/curtains. They also shelve a natty array of gorgeous wraps, loungewear and accessories that fit perfectly into carry-on. Next, drop by stylist-favourite Incredible (116/4 Sukhumvit Soi 23), for a rummage of the eclectic stash of in- and outdoor furny and antiques along with ostrich eggs and taxidermy.
4pm: So near, so spa
Even the most robust of visitors can get overwhelmed by the noise, heat and buzz of Bangkok but thankfully, this is Thailand and there are spas aplenty to counter the chaos. Occupying a mod Siamese villa with pretty garden outlook, The Oasis Spa offers Thai, Lanna and Ayurvedic massages, including the signature two therapist, four-hander. If you have time, there’s also body scrubs and wraps, foot rubs and facials with trad herbs, plus Jacuzzi and steam. Oh, go on…
64 Soi Sawasdee, Sukhumvit Soi 31. +66 2 2622 122 oasisspa.net
7pm: Dinner at Issaya Siamese Club
If you’ve planned ahead, you’ll have either pre-booked a pool-side perch at Nahm, David Thompson’s superlative Thai fine-diner or nabbed a coveted spot at Anand Gaggan’s molecular Indian marvel Gaggan. But if not, call ahead for a table at the fabulous Issaya Siamese Club instead. This lovely retro garden villa furnished in bright Thai textiles plays host to Ian Kittichai’s richly flavoured, varied recipes and is the perfect ending to your 12-hour adventure.
4 Soi Sri Aksorn, +66 2 6729 040 issaya.com
A note on the dress code: Visit during December and you’ll notice Thai people are still wearing black, white or grey in mourning for The King. While visitors aren’t expected to do likewise, leave your bright hues and day-glo at home.
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Published 9 December 2016.
Hero image: Magicinfoto/Shutterstock.com
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