A.K.A The best of Melbourne’s Little Italy, minus the generic, Ferrari poster-plastered spots.
Stretching long and thin like a strand of spaghetti north from the city, vibrant strip Lygon St has long been Melbourne’s Italian epicentre. These days the epic-urian enclave is rich and full of flavour – much like a good passata. But you can bet your bologna that the constant tourist trade means many bistros are more about siestas than service, and content to plate up gnocchi that would have nonna pulling out her perm.
But don’t fret, precious pecorinos: we’ve sorted the bad olives from the bunch and compiled a local-approved list of the best trad trattorias, bellissimo bars and dolce dessert options Mellie has to offer. Mangiare!
Classico Italiano: il Cantuccio
If you want a real-deal red saucer with no frills, fuss or fancy fit-out, look no further than family-run stalwart il Cantuccio. Between bare bricks and wicker-wrapped wine bottles that have hung from the beams for nigh on three decades, owner Mario dishes up perfecto pasta and homestyle mains. Think Calabrese spicy meatballs and hand-pressed pumpkin agnolotti – all served with a good barolo and bit of banter, beninteso.
Il Cantuccio, 209 Lygon St, Carlton, Melbourne. +61 3 9347 9959, ilcantuccio.com.au
Nuovo Italiano: Heart Attack & Vine
Racing away from the garish Lamborghini tat-laden restos that still dominate sections of the Lygon strip is this white n’ woody mod nod to the vino bars of the old country. By day, the counter is packed with workers and uni professors plowing through porchetta rolls and smooth espressos. But come aperitivo hour, it ups the ante-pasti with seasonally-driven cicchetti (that’s a Venetian take on tapas) paired with Euro and local pours. Primo!
Heart Attack & Vine, 329 Lygon St, Carlton, Melbourne. +61 3 9005 8624, heartattackandvine.com.au
Pizza the Action: DOC Pizza
Pies like they make in Napoli: thin, crisp and topped off with simple, fresh ingreds – go for the signature margherita with buffalo mozzarella. But be warned, this DOC don’t take bookings and is almost always busy so arrive before 6.30pm or after 9pm.
DOC Pizza, 295 Drummond St, Carlton, Melbourne. +61 3 9347 2998, docgroup.net
So Cheesy: Milk the Cow
This natty newcomer has enough cheese to please any formaggio-loving Frankie – more than 150 varieties ranging from hard to soft to smoked and spice-spiked – plus house-made pastes, jams and select cold cuts. Park your bot on the banquette and order a farmer’s board with complementing tasting beers or a fondue pot with fig shrub cocktail. Gouda one!
Milk the Cow, 323 Lygon St, Carlton, Melbourne. +61 3 9348 4771, milkthecow.com.au
Gelati-sanal: Pidapipó
At Lisa Valmorbida’s cream dream each of the all-natural offerings is made and churned on site daily. Just like at Roman gelateria, the frozen flaves are secreted away in special stainless steel pozzetti. But you don’t need to eyeball picks like honeycomb (made with the help of Honey Fingers urban bees) and Piemonte hazelnut to know you’re in for one sweet treat. The ice-ing on your Lygon street sup sesh.
Pidapipó, 299 Lygon St, Carlton, Melbourne. +61 3 9347 4596, pidapipo.com.au
Published 1 October 2015.
Want to get off the main drag? For top eats in the Carlton back streets get the LUXE Melbourne guide or download the fab app!
