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Eat Like a Chef in Barcelona: Buster Turner, Rooftop Smokehouse

It might now be pushing 5 years old, but Barcelona’s Rooftop Smokehouse continues to set pace as one of the city’s most exciting dining experiences. A labour of oak-barrel scented love conceived by Brit chef Buster Turner, his Catalan wife Carla Rodamilans and Italian Jakob Zeller, the concept wows foodies and the fashion-forward alike with its menu of smoked, fermented, pickled and cured dishes. 

You can sample the seasonal taste-bombs at their Lehman Factory digs (replete with a smoking chimney), or, hop on down to sibling El Born sipster Bar Paradiso, secreted behind the fridge door of their now-famous Pastrami Bar.

Away from the smoking chimney, co-founder Buster Turner dishes out his favourite Barcelona restaurants, from dawns-crack breakfast spots to family-run institutions. 


This place is one of my favourite places to go with a group of friends and try to order everything on the menu. Each dish is better than the last. Rafa is so creative but also makes it so simple and thoughtful; it’s all about the food. Great wine list too.

230, Carrer de Provença, 08036  @Gresca

La Cova Fumada

My death row eatery. This place is hands down my go-to for the last supper (even if it doesn’t open at night). It’s all about going there early doors for breakfast. Get stuck into black pudding and chickpeas or recortes, washed down with a cheeky Quinto at sunrise… need I say more? A Barcelona classic, I almost feel I shouldn’t be sharing this one

56 Carrer del Baluard, 08003,


When we head to the fish market out by the airport at 5am it’s become a tradition to stop at Gelidas on the way back for some cap i pota (calves head, tripe, trotter stew) for breakfast. Remember to wash down your gelatinous bowl of goodness with Vi de Gandesa. This will set you up right for the rest of the day.

133 Carrer de la Diputació, 08015 

Ca l’Isidre

Nuria runs my favourite restaurants in Barcelona – I have never met a family who knows and cares more about hospitality and food. The focus is on the produce, pure and simple and they intimately know every detail about anything that’s plated. A gastronomic institution that can’t be missed. 

Carrer de les Flors, 12, 08001,

Dream Cafe

Late-night drunken chef hideout serving tasty cheap Chinese comfort food where anything goes. You will regularly find the Rooftop chefs in the back, at the round table where everyone’s welcome.

Carrer de Viladomat, 10, 08015, @Dream-Cafe

Hero image: Philippa Langley

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