Rome wasn’t built in a day and you really do need more than one to uncover the Eternal City’s many secrets. But those on a stopover or mini-break can still explore some of Roma’s best bits in a svelte 12 hours, especially in the cooler winter months when fewer tourists means shorter queues and quieter streets. Here’s a rundown of how to make the most of a day in the awe-inspiring Italian capital. Andiamo!
7am: Take in the Trevi Fountain at dawn
The stunning C.18th Fontana di Trevi is truly a must see, especially after her recent Fendi-funded fix up. But come any day from 8am till late and you can expect the entire square to be teeming coachers and cruisers – how irritante! To have your own solo encounter (a la Anita in La Dolce Vita) arise early and visit at dawn when it’ll be just you and the water-spouting statues. Piazza di Trevi, Trevi.
8am: Get a quick caffeine kick from Caffè Tazza d’Oro
Italians don’t generally have a big breakfast so make like the coffee-loving locals and join the line at this venerated espresso institution. Service is fast as a Ferrari so be sure you know what you want when you get to the stand n’ sip counter. Our suggestion: the house-blend cappuccino and a buttery cornetti, followed by a quick peep in the magnificent Pantheon which is located just opposite. Via degli Orfani, 84, Pantheon. +39 06 678 9792. tazzadorocoffeeshop.com
9.30am: Step down in time at the Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini
There’s more to Rome than meets the eye, as proven by these well-conserved underground ruins of an opulent ancient Roman house which lie hidden beneath a C.16th palazzo. Step onto a suspended glass floor and look down to delicate mosaic tiles and marble floors that are then ‘rebuilt’ before your eyes with clever 3D holographic projections. At the end of the guided tour you’ll also get an upclose look at the towering Trajan’s Column from a secret cellar entrance. Palazzo Valentini, Piazza Foro Traiano, 85, Piazza Venezia. By guided tour only, book tickets online or call +39 06 2276 1280. English tours at 9.30am, 1.30pm, 2pm & 2.30pm, tours in Italian, French, Spanish & German also available. palazzovalentini.it
11.30am: Go grand at the Galleria Doria Pamphilj
But a skip off the crammed and crazy Via del Corso lies this astonishingly ornate, yet easily overlooked, C.16th courtyard palace owned by the aristocratic Doria-Pamphilj-Landi family. A series of princely gallery rooms are adorned with late-Baroque frescoed ceilings, antique Roman statues and paintings by Bernini, Raphael and Caravaggio. Don’t miss the chapel (complete with the mummified remains of the fam’s fave saint) or the by-private-tour-only apartments, where the Pamphilj princess still lives. That’s one rather rub-a-dub bathroom! Via del Corso, 305, Piazza Venezia. +39 06 679 7323. doriapamphilj.it
1pm: Lunch at Al Moro
After such a jam-packed morning, it’s time to settle in for a long lunch. So wiggle over to this classic trattoria for polished woods, nostalgic pics and traddy Roman plates served up with old-fash finesse. Fellini was a fan and Valentino still is, so you know the homemade pastas are primo. Vicolo delle Bollette, 13, Trevi. +39 06 678 3495. ristorantealmororoma.com
3pm: Get spendy around the Pantheon
Sure, you could hit the big label stables along Via dei Condotti and Via del Babuino, but if you’d rather shop Rome’s smaller ateliers, explore the cobblestone streets leading east of main vein Via del Corso towards Piazza Navona. In this pretty pocket you’ll find chic boutiques like Laura Tonatto for fabulous fragrances, soft n’ simple leather belts and briefcases at Federico Polidori, totes amazing Sirni for bespoke bags and covetable curios at antiques emporium Eclectica, plus tempting chocs at confetteria Moriondo e Gariglio. Go on, shop to it!
7pm: Fine dine at La Pergola
Rome’s only three-Michelin-starred eatelier is a lavish affair of Sèvres porcelain, glittery city vistas, splendid terrace, 53,000 bottles of wine and thrilling nouvelle Italian menu by the masterful Heinz Beck. And if the whole sublime epicurean experience doesn’t move you to tears the bill certainly will. Rome Cavalieri Hotel, Via Alberto Cadlolo, 101, Monte Mario. +39 06 3509 2152, romecavalieri.com
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