Once home to Suzie Wong and her colourful sisters, neon-clad cluster Wan Chai boasts a rainbow of rif-raf from seedy to scene-y – here’s how to navigate these crooked streets in style.
From heritage hotbeds to styley boutiques and restos bursting with local flavours, a nose around this upcoming enclave will unearth a bounty of hidden hideaways. Hong Kong’s a late riser, so don’t bother going out until 10am earliest, and note that many shops are closed Sun-Mon. Right, skip the java jolt and kickstart your day with a local brew at Lock Cha Tea House. A far cry from the pomp and ceremony of most trad tea houses, this cute screened retreat, set amid the lushery of Hong Kong Park, offers soothing tastings and demos alongside light n’ bright veggie dim sum.
Begin your galactic retail assault on the cluster around Star, Sun and Moon Streets, a lively, pedestrian-friendly precinct that’s home to artist studios and indie boutiques with designer threads and interi-ahhs.
An amble through St Francis Yard will land you at hipanista French-owned and inflected men’s, women’s and lifestyle boutique Kapok, which fosters edgy, emerging names, so you can channel Parisian insouciance without having to perfect the quintessential ‘tude. Pff!
Now swing over to the gorgeous NY loft meets trinket trove Lala Curio. Parsons grad Laura Cheung channels trad Chinese motifs, plush textures and vibrant hues across her mod furny, upholstery, lighting, homeware and art range.
Time to trot on down to Queen’s Rd East where Ovo’s simple, sophisty n’ sultry own-brand contempo Asian furny awaits. Bespoke Betties, rejoice! Pieces can be custom made, but don’t overlook her fab home accessories and designer wares. You’ll find mod sis OVO Studio at 60 Johnston Rd.
Read More: Heritage Trails Hong Kong
Spendy Wendy turning pecky Becky? Fear not, you’re but a stiletto’s skip from calorific salvation at 22 Ships where Jason Atherton’s succulent share morsels – from scallop ceviche and paella to baked bone marrow and suckling pig – impress in diminutive but perma-buzzy industri-chic digs.
Time to throw on those culture specs, pet! It’s but a short stroll back to Admiralty for the stellar, region-promoting Asia Society, sitting pretty in a striking, modern edifice. Dedicated to strengthening partnerships across Asia and in the US, this NPO offers exhibitions, lectures, and film screenings, plus glam fusion eats at AMMO.
Looking to blow that banker’s bonus? With Hong Kong now placed firmly on the global art map, the city is chokka with mod galleries. So if you’re art inclined, consult savvy go-to-gal Sabrina Fung to guide you through a gaggle of contempo Asian works, by appointment of course.
It’s about time to settle, petal, and when the clock strikes sup o’clock it’s nothing but choices, choices.
For authentic local flaves make a beeline for Fu Sing. You’ll forgive the gaudy gilt decor and pushy service after trying the on-point Canto classics – order the perfectly crisp and devilishly fatty barbecue pork whoops char siu butt.
Or, for a taste of Shanghai, mosey to Wan Chai mainstay Liu Yuan Pavilion. The interiors are admittedly blah, but it’s the in-the-know go-to for xiao long bao, smoked eggs and hairy crab. Contempo dishes are heavy on pretty prez and light on grease.
But for something a tad more refined, park your stylish bot at Ta Pantry. Owner-chef Tata Esther is a pioneer of Hong Kong’s private kitchen scene and last year opened this Sino-French restaurant-proper though the private dining room still reflects her clandestine cooking roots. Ensure you book at least seven days in advance. Spectacu-lah!
Updated November 2018.
For more Hong Kong neighbourhood deep-dives…
