The bucolic rolling hills and choc-box pretty villages of the Cotswolds have long been the weekend retreat of London’s politicos, bankers, models… and now you too.
But a 1hr 30-min train ride from Paddington (or a 2-hr drive), this idyllic, verdurous, protected patch in west-central England – with its stately piles, medieval stone cottages, quaint olde pubs and lovely country walks – makes for a revitalising short escape from the London bustle.
Owner of luxury property rentals Avenue and local scene queen, Annabel Brooks was born in the Cotswolds and still has her family home there (which you can rent). Here’s Annabel’s guide for 48 hours in ‘the most beautiful region in England’.
Day 1
AM: I would start with Blenheim Palace, the grandest house in the Cotswolds and the only palace not lived in by a royal. Skip the tour and instead enjoy the Capability Brown designed gardens and park – the lakes and vistas all look totally natural but are artfully done to seem so. Afterwards, wander around Woodstock, looking out for finds in antique shops – there’s also a farmer’s market on Saturdays.
Lunch: Drive either through Great Tew or Little Tew to eat at Soho House if you are a member, or head to Charlbury (home to the magical Wilderness Festival every summer), and eat at The Bull, a comparatively new gastropub.
PM: Head for Swinbrook, which in my mind is the prettiest village in the Cotswolds, and grab some tea or a pint at The Swan as you watch a game of cricket. This pub is owned by the the estate of the late Debo Devonshire, the youngest of the notorious Mitford sisters; from Swinbrook, you can walk along the Windrush Valley to Astall Manor, where the Mitfords all grew up in ‘a unruly fashion’. The present owner of Astall, Rosie Pearson, hosts an ‘On Form’ sculpture exhibition every other summer (the next one is 2018) and you can also dip into the Potting Shed, her organic cafe. Then drive through the town of Burford (don’t stop, you can’t park) and head for a well deserved dinner at The Wild Rabbit.
Day 2
AM: Start at Stow-on-the-Wold, a charming old market town where there is an exquisite little bookshop called Borzoi and several delicatessens. Have lunch at the Upton Smokery.
PM: After lunch, either head to Lechlade and rent a boat for the afternoon, or drive to Batsford, where there are falconry displays. Alternatively, you can visit Kiftsgate or Hidcote – England is known for its famous gardens and these two are exceptional. Next, drive through the pretty but oddly named Upper and Lower Slaughters. If you have time go to Chipping Campden, another well-preserved market town, and then a well earned dinner at The Plough in Kingham.
Desti-Essentials
Sleep
I don’t think you can fully absorb the atmosphere of the Cotswolds if you stay in a big hotel, I would take a cottage at Daylesford or the Wild Rabbit for a short stay. Alternatively, rent a private home: My home, Churchill Manor is perfect for big groups; America Farm for those wanting to explore Oxford; Chestnut Rectory for a modern spin on a country house and a quintessential Cotswolds house, Greenwich Lane Farm is ideal for a family.
Shop
Daylesford, the organic farm shop and restaurant set up by Carole Bamford, has changed the Cotswolds and is a destination in its own right. It’s my go-to shop – I love the truffle brie and Leoube rosé from the Bamford’s own vineyard in France.
What to Wear
Jeans, sweaters, elegant tops like those from Maje and a dress and heels as parties often spring up out of the blue – but a dressed down look is better than being over dressed. It can always rain, so pack a mac. I love the ones from APC and lace-up wellies by Ilse Jacobsen. Never white jeans, even in the summer!
Pamper Spots
Queen of the fake tan Amanda Harrington, who lives on our farm part time, runs In Parlour – beauty therapists that come to your home. Simon Smith in Chipping Norton has decamped from London and is the go-to hairdresser and Breakspeare Clinic in Milton-under-Wychwood for massages and acupuncture.
Annabel’s LOVES and LOATHES
I LOVE… the walks. My favourite is Adlestrop to Chastleton, a gothic house where many films have been set. The last time I went on that walk, Tom Hollander recited ‘Adlestrop’ by Edward Thomas under a tree in the pouring rain, it was perfect.
I LOATHE… Bicester Village. It’s always crammed, clothes are always in weird sizes, but apparently it’s the number one tourist destination in the UK. If I want to go shopping, I do it in London. I am a fan of Shakespeare’s plays, however a visit to Stratford-upon-Avon can be disappointing as it’s so touristy.
Names to drop?
Both my sister-in-laws, Rebekah and Amanda Brooks. Amanda who is opening a lifestyle shop in Stow-on-the-Wold next year. Elisabeth Murdoch, Lady Carole Bamford, Jeremy Clarkson, Jemima Khan, Alex James (from Blur) who hosts the Big Feastival every summer.
Getting There
Depending on which part you go to, The Cotswolds are a 2-3-hour drive from London. Alternatively, take the train from Paddington to Hereford, getting off at Charlbury, Kingham or Moreton-in-Marsh. Once there, hire a car – you’ll need one to get around.
Starting your Cotswolds adventure in London? Don’t forget to order your LUXE London guide.
