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What:
King
Where:
West Soho, New York
Why we love it:
Despite the regal name, neo-bistro King received little in the way of grand fanfare when it opened on a 6th Ave corner back in September.
Perhaps it was that the femme trio behind the new resto – chefs Jess Shadbolt and Clare de Boer both formerly of London’s River Cafe and Annie Shi of The Clove Club – didn’t have an extensive network in NYC and thus their first venture went largely unnoticed.
Or maybe it was the ubiquitous fit-out of whitewashed brick walls, banquettes and light woods that suggested the menu would also offer nothing strikingly new.
But as soon as whispers about the team’s credentials started spreading, savvy foodies got in early to find themselves tantalised by the Provençal fish stew, the critics caught on and now there is a veritable buzz around this understated little charmer.
And deservingly so. The simple, daily-changing dinner dishes are a refreshing, tweaked take on the familiar fare of southern France and northern Italy. Typical starters include Florence fennel with parmesan salad or salt cod with braised artichokes and chickpeas, while mains move into heartier territory via whole roast lobster with Pastis, chili and crushed flageolet beans.
Look closer at the decor and you’ll find canny, demur details: creamy cane screens that let in light but block the sight of passing traffic, and potted herbs and flowers flanking the racing green entrance. It’s these small subtleties make this humble neighbourhood salon a a reigning star of New York’s recent openings.18 King St, Soho, New York City. +1 917 825 1618. kingrestaurant.nyc
– Published 14 November 2016.
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