Debauchery often peaks in hot climates. So when the weather in NYC heats up and the city is a honking gridlock of melting sidewalks, dead air and sweaty tourists, New Yorkers head East, chasing the fresh air and balmier nights.
The Hamptons has long been the most popular summer destination, however the 100-mile tailback from the Friday afternoon city exodus is now as notorious as the weekend parties – unless you’re taking the chopper, it’s enough to make you reconsider.
Those in the know have found a new summer home: Bellport. Complete with pristine beaches, unspoilt wilderness and only 60 miles from Manhattan, (you simply take the detour off Sunrise Highway), this quaint little haven in Suffolk County is steeped in personality and charm, with a healthy dose of unpretentiousness.
Bellport is understated, with a friendly and relaxed attitude that’s often lacking in the sceney neighbouring resorts of Southampton, Sag Harbour and Montauk – now more synonymous with celebrities, reality stars and paparazzi, who all roam the beaches with equal valour and absurdity. Bellport residents happily refer to the village as ‘the antithesis of The Hamptons’ and are protective of the strong sense of community and inclusiveness.
Set amid a lagoon on the Great South Bay, Bellport sits sheltered from the Atlantic Ocean by the barrier reef and Fire Island. A mere 1.5 square miles in size, and consisting of some 600 houses, the village has long been home to a roll call of industry titans and the odd Royal.
PG Wodehouse, the English writer famed for his insights into British frivolity, moved to Bellport in 1914, while in the late 1930s, the village welcomed Jacqueline Bouvier (Kennedy). In the decades that followed, Bellport became a summer retreat for artists and creative Manhattanites, including the celebrated fashion photographer, Bruce Weber, who’s known for inviting neighbours over to take part in photography sittings.
The locals are exceedingly friendly, so if you decide that you need reading suggestions, tap resident Si Newhouse, the publishing magnate and owner of Condé Nast, or his counterpart Anna Wintour, a former resident. Art advice is best sought from contemporary artist, Tim Furzer and gallerist extraordinaire, Angela Westwater, and neighbours Francisco Costa (former Calvin Klein Creative Director) and Kevin Carrigan (Ralph Lauren’s Creative Director), are certainly well placed to lend a cashmere hoodie or two.
Isabella Rossellini, a long time Bellport resident who recently turned part of her 28-acre estate into a working organic farm, has been known to hold intimate dinners to raise funds for the Bellport-Brookhaven Historical Society. Guests might well find themselves seated next to an incomprehensible Boris, Bobo and Harriet – the resident pig, goat and sheep are the stars of the farm, while the heritage chickens have had art exhibitions held in their honour.
It’s not hard to see why Bellport is so captivating. Founded in early 1800s by sea captains, Thomas and John Bell, the village was initially known for shipbuilding and whaling. Most of the traditional colonial-style architecture, some circa 1830s, has been well preserved. Houses in the village abide by a strict colour scheme, and upkeep is a matter of pride. Seek out Howie at Old Purchase Properties for house rentals, but full disclosure: you might end up becoming a resident.
There are no big hotels, no shopping malls, but local amenities are taken care of. The swirl of social activity revolves around Porters and The Bellport, the two main restaurants which serve typical, wholesome American food. Seilenna‘s makes the best coffee, and white-picket fenced Carla Marla’s Ice Cream Parlor, serves decadently delicious scoops, amid a decor reminiscent of 1950s Americana, and the complimentary chirpy attitude. For detox, head to It’s Only Natural Store for wheatgrass shots, and a quirky array of organic beauty products that appear to have avoided mass production.
Hot summer days are spent at the private Ho Hum Beach, which is part of a wilderness reserve and located on Fire Island. Keen to preserve the unspoilt nature, the beach is only accessible by village residents and their guests, plus the odd fox or deer. You might even spot the odd visitor hiding in the bushes, keen to remain in this tranquil place where time stood still.
Images courtesy of Howie Guja from Old Purchase Properties.
Starting your Bellport escape in New York? Ensure you’re prepared for the Big Apple’s best bits with a LUXE New York Guide…
